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Who knew how much history is hidden behind a small coastal town in Greece?
If you are considering a visit to Kamena Vourla or want to know more about this area, you’ve come to the right place.
In the first part of this blog, we delve deep into the lesser-known historical and architectural treasures of Kamena Vourla.
These include fascinating abandoned buildings and the story behind them, offering a glimpse into the town’s past and the impacts of its decline. This information makes a place so much more than its beaches or attractions, I find it fascinating and I hope you do too.
In the second part, we transition from history to present-day activities, highlighting what you can do in and around Kamena Vourla. Whether you’re looking to explore beautiful natural spots, indulge in local cuisine, or embark on adventurous activities, we’ve got you covered.
I mention a lot of different places in this guide that you can find in this Google Maps link.
Kamena Vourla is a charming coastal town located in central Greece, about 150 kilometers or a 90-minute drive north of Athens.
Just off the main Egnatia highway, it serves as a quick stop on the way further north, or as the full destination to base yourself and explore the surrounding area.
With Kamena Vourla as your base, you can head further north, explore the whole of Central Greece, take the ferry to the island of Evoia, and even head to the lush islands of the Sporades.
What is the history of Kamena Vourla?
The best way to connect to an area is by understanding its history. This is very much the case with this small town, which might appear insignificant at first glance but serves as a reminder and a lesson on the effects of tourism, nature’s gifts, and the political games that go unseen behind the scenes.
The ancient times
In ancient times, Kamena Vourla was one of the Asclepeia, healing sanctuaries, and places of worship and treatment, built near hot springs, to take advantage of their therapeutic characteristics. The name comes from Asclepius, god of medicine and healing and son of Apollo. You can think of Asclepeia as the forerunner to medical tourism.
Modern settlement and the discovery of radon
The modern development of Kamena Vourla began after the 1920s when chemist Michail Pertesis discovered the presence of radon in the water. Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that emerges as a decay product of radium. Unlike radium, which is a solid element, radon is a gas that can easily dissolve in water. At the time, the therapeutic use of radon was considered highly beneficial for health, particularly for its purported ability to treat various ailments. This discovery significantly contributed to the town’s transformation into a popular wellness destination.
Here is a short timeline:
- 1898: Marie Curie and her husband, Pierre Curie, discovered radium while researching uranium ore. Radium was found to be a highly radioactive element, which led to numerous scientific studies on its properties and potential uses.
- 1900: Friedrich Ernst Dorn, a German physicist, discovered radon as a byproduct of radium decay. While radium itself was used in various medical treatments, radon gained attention for its therapeutic potential, in treating chronic degenerative and inflammatory conditions.
- 1920s: Michail Pertesis analyzed the waters of Kamena Vourla and identified the high concentration of radon, which was believed to enhance the therapeutic qualities of the hot springs.
The golden era of Kamena Vourla
Within ten years, Kamena Vourla had its first hotels.
Before that time, only a few huts and shepherds occupied the area. With World War II, came destruction and decline, but that was reversed in the 1950s when the area began to transform, until its peak in the 1980s and late 1990s.
The photos below were posted on a local Facebook page.
How to Reach Kamena Vourla
Reaching Kamena Vourla is very easy.
If you’re traveling from Athens, you can drive north along the Athens-Thessaloniki National Road (E75) for about two hours. The road trip is scenic, with views of mountains and the sea along the way.
Alternatively, you can take a bus from Athens’ KTEL Liosion bus station, which offers regular services to Kamena Vourla.
For those arriving from Thessaloniki, the journey is a bit over three hours by car, making it an accessible destination from both major cities.
If you are considering renting a car, check out Discover Cars.
They make it easy to compare all major and local car rental companies around Greece, so you can find the best price, regardless of the city you are in.
Activities and Things to Do in Kamena Vourla
There is so much to do in and around the area of Kamena Vourla. Let’s explore a few options.
Explore the Abandoned Buildings
Kammena Vourla is home to several fascinating abandoned buildings that offer a glimpse into its rich past. Among these are the iconic hotels “Radio” and “Thronio,” which once stood as symbols of the town’s golden era as a premier spa destination in Greece.
I find this a great place to start in order to understand more about the area and why it even exists!
These hotels, along with the “Asklepios” hydrotherapy center, have been designated as modern monuments due to their historical and architectural significance.
Other semi or fully abandoned projects in the area, include the E.O.T Koniaviti camping site and the Koniaviti thermal springs.
The Story of Mitsis Galini and Kamena Vourla
Let’s start with Mitsis. One of the first things visitors will notice if they spend time in and around Kamena Vourla is that despite the “spa town” label, access to and use of public thermal spas is kinda difficult. While the label is there, you don’t “see it” as much as one would expect.
For starters, there are only two ways to actually access the spas.
One is through the 5-star Mitsis Galini Hotel and the other is the Kouniaviti Thermal Spa just outside the city. But why?
Mitsis Galini Hotel: A Grand Plan
This luxurious 5-star hotel, prominently located on the waterfront, is well-known, but less known to the casual visitor is the fact that it owns a sprawling 475-acre estate encompassing the beach, adjacent now-abandoned hotels, and thermal spas.
In other words, it owns much of the landscape that makes up the town. Most of that landscape, except the hotel itself, is technically open to locals or tourists. However, while it once made up the most beautiful area for visitors to enjoy it is now simply existing.
Behind the hotel, a large eucalyptus park, once a cherished public oasis, now stands neglected just a short distance from the beach. This park, which previously offered a variety of amenities such as hiking trails, sports courts for both children and adults and spaces for various activities, has fallen into disrepair.
The beachfront that once served as a private beach for hotel guests, with luxurious amenities, water sports, and even a sailing club is now also definitely lacking while the potential is there. The somewhat positive news is that the area is set for transformation.
Through a combination of funding from the government and a 50 million investment from Mitsis, the 40-year lease given to the hotel by the Hellenic Republic Asset Development Fund is supposed to shake things up.
Here are some quick details:
- Annual Rent: €380,000
- Upfront Payment: €1,050,000
- Lease Duration: 40 years
- Mandatory Investments:
- Restoration of the abandoned “Radio” and “Thronio” hotels and the “Asklepios” hydrotherapy center, all designated as modern monuments.
- Improvement and maintenance of green spaces and pedestrian areas.
- Development of a new parking area and traffic management improvements.
- Ongoing upkeep of the Mitsis Galini Hotel and renovation of the “Hippocrates” hydrotherapy center.
While the investment is promising, there is cautious optimism regarding its impact.
Historical projects of this scale have frequently struggled to deliver on their promises, leaving locals and Greeks, in general, to question whether this redevelopment will indeed bring meaningful change.
Either way, it is important part of what makes this place unique.
- Can you enter the Mitsis Galini Spa if you don’t stay at the hotel?
Yes of course! As of 2024, visitors can book a 20-minute slot in the outdoor or indoor thermal pool, for €6-€10.
Koniaviti Hot Springs: Missed Opportunity
A few kilometers outside the city, visitors will come across two locations on the map marked as “Kouniaviti Thermal Baths” and “Thermal Baths of Kouniavitis Mill”.
Here they are on the map.
This is yet another government-owned area with big plans but little in the way of concrete actions. While it’s free for visitors to enjoy, the reality as you can is a bit underwhelming.
The grand promises have failed to materialize into tangible improvements, leaving these spaces—despite their prime locations—somewhat neglected. The area spans an impressive 830 acres, which is ripe for development, and 1,150 meters of beachfront access with breathtaking views.
Not to mention that the location is super accessible as it is just off the main highway.
Personally, I found the sight of this area to be somewhat bittersweet, which could have been a center for recreation, thermal, and medical tourism.
While I wouldn’t discourage people from visiting, the area is evidently not attractive to visitors on a large scale. A lot of older people do visit to take advantage of the therapeutic properties of the water.
At times, there have also been concerns about the quality of the water, and the location of the biological wastewater treatment nearby. Neither of which do much to uplift a bleak image, with plastic chairs and the little amenities.
The Abandoned Government Camping Site
Another intriguing facet of Koniaviti is the abandoned government camping site. This once-bustling EOT (National Tourism Organization) campground now sits in a state of disrepair, reflecting a broader trend of underutilized government-owned properties.
Here’s what’s left of the campsite:
“There are abandoned camping facilities on the property, with infrastructure for 250 caravans, receptions building, 50 huts, 5 stores, staff buildings, etc.” (source: Government website)
Nowadays, those who want to drive or walk around the area will find the buildings house stray dogs with strange signs, warning visitors not to approach and disrupt the “treatments” they receive.
Radion Hotel
As mentioned, two large abandoned hotels will be revived per the terms of the lease agreement with Mitsis Galini.
Let’s start with the Radion, the largest hotel in the area. Located right by the seaside road, and next to the church of St. Panteleimon, the Radion Hotel was once a grand sight. Today, it hides behind an old, also barely functioning amusement park, but in the 1960s, there was a beautiful park here with fountains and trees where guests would relax.
Here’s a quick look at what makes Radion stand out:
- Architectural Style: Designed by Gerasimos Molfesis in 1937-38, reflecting Bauhaus principles with clean lines, functional design, and a focus on geometric forms.
- Hotel Structure: The hotel has two wings (A and B) forming an angle, with three floors, and featured 78 rooms. The main staircase is a striking arched structure with small windows.
- Facilities: Back in the day, guests in Wing B enjoyed direct access to baths fed by the thermal springs. There were also communal baths on each floor since the rooms didn’t have private bathrooms.
- Reception Area: The entrance leads to a spacious lobby with the reception area offering views of the sea through a large arched window. The decor included wooden beams and mosaic flooring.
- Abandoned Charm: Radion closed in 1989, and since then, it’s been left to the elements. The roof has caved in places, windows are broken or missing, and nature has started to take over the interiors.
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Hotel Thronio
What a beauty this hotel would once have been!
Just a short walk from Radio Hotel, heading toward the mountain, this was a smaller, two-story hotel that is also the creation of Gerasimos Molfesis from the 1930s. It’s now almost entirely hidden by thick vegetation.
Some interesting tidbits about Thronio:
- Size and Layout: A more intimate hotel with rooms overlooking the gardens nestled between the two hotels. It had central baths with water from the springs.
- Interior: Upon entering, you’d be greeted by a large lounge area with expansive windows offering views of the garden and Radion. The kitchen is in a lower section accessible by stairs.
- Unique Features: The western wing housed spacious bath areas with large bathtubs and brown tiles, naturally lit by big windows. Upstairs, a narrow wooden staircase led to the attic and a bridge to another room.
- Current State: Thronio stopped operating in the mid-1980s. Vandalism has stripped it of much of its fittings, and the ground floor has been taken over by the smell and signs of animals being kept there. The building is slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Asclepius Hydrotherapy Center
If you thought there couldn’t possibly be more places like this, think again.
Behind the hotels is the Asclepius Hydrotherapy Center, built around the same time and by the same architect as Radion and Thronion. It’s been closed since 2000, and unfortunately, you can’t go inside since it’s used as storage now.
Here’s what you should know:
- Architecture: A long building with an imposing entrance marked by a small staircase and two red vertical elements that stand out against the rest of the structure, which was once entirely white.
- Design Influence: Like the other buildings, it follows Bauhaus principles with an emphasis on symmetry and clean lines. Two rest areas with columns flank the entrance on the north side.
- Condition: The building is in better shape than the others but still shows signs of decay, and access is restricted.
Hippocrates Hydrotherapy Center
Rounding off the tour, we have yet another government building that has been left to rot. Exactly right next to Asklepios complex, the Hippocrates Hydrotherapy Center is another important, yet currently inactive, piece of Kamena Vourla’s thermal heritage.
Here’s a quick look at the situation:
- Current Status: The Hippocrates Hydrotherapy Center, like most other thermal spa facilities, remains closed.
- Local Impact: The closure of the Hippocrates Center is a significant setback for Kamena Vourla. It compounds the challenges faced by local businesses that rely on the region’s hydrotherapy services. With the Galini Hotel also closing its thermal baths for the winter, there are very few options available for both locals and visitors seeking therapeutic experiences.
- Political pressure: Before Mitsis Galini Hotel Group signed a new lease, there was pressure to include a year-round operation clause in the contract, to ensure the opening of the hydrotherapy center. Obviously, this has had to materialize in 2024.
With all that information in mind, let’s now explore what is there to do in and around the town.
Sail or Rent a Boat to Lichadonisia
A visit to Kamena Vourla isn’t complete without exploring the nearby Lichadonisia islands. Known as the “Greek Seychelles,” these uninhabited islands offer a slice of paradise with their crystal-clear waters.
The best way to reach the islands is through an organized small boat cruise, but there is also the option of renting a boat and exploring on your own.
What makes Lichadonisia even more special is the opportunity to spot Mediterranean monk seals. In fact, I would say this area is considered one of the best spots in Greece to see them.
Read this guide for more information:
Dine on Fresh Seafood
Being a coastal town, Kamena Vourla boasts an abundance of fresh seafood. Local tavernas and restaurants serve up delicious dishes made from the day’s catch. Whether you’re craving grilled octopus, fried calamari, or a hearty seafood stew, the town’s dining scene won’t disappoint. Pair your meal with a glass of ouzo or local wine for the full Greek experience.
Feast on Local Meats
If seafood isn’t your thing, Kamena Vourla also offers a variety of traditional meat dishes. The region is known for its quality lamb and goat, often roasted or grilled to perfection. Don’t miss the chance to try local specialties like “kokoretsi”, “kontosouvli,” or “splinantero” which are best tried before googling the ingredients. Trust me, the taste is amazing and will give you a different insight into Greek cuisine that is not often talked about.
Dionysos, located right on the waterfront, is a must-visit for meat lovers, offering mouthwatering dishes in a setting that combines great food with stunning sea views.
Swim in Asproneri
Asproneri Beach is a popular spot near Kamena Vourla. The beach has a pebbled shore and wonderful clear waters. Keep in mind that there is little natural shade, however, a large part of the beach is organized, in case you can’t bring umbrellas and other beach equipment.
There is also a lifeguard station and an area with water slides, that is perfect for kids.
Make sure to bring snorkeling equipment to explore the underwater world.
Go Scuba Diving
Scuba diving is one of my latest hobbies and it has opened up a new way of exploring areas I visit. For this reason, I make sure to research diving spots where I go and learn more about the history of the area that way as well. Kamena Vourla offers excellent scuba diving opportunities, especially in nearby Lichadonisia, with countless small bays, colorful fish, corals, and even some shipwrecks.
One of the highlights is the Pioneer I shipwreck, one of the first cement ships used during World War II, which now rests at a depth of just 10 meters, making it easy to access and explore even for novice divers.
We have used and recommend the local diving center of V Dive, run by local and extremely experienced technical diver Damianos. Make sure to schedule your visit for a weekday to have more flexibility on sights and less traffic above water.
Check Out the View from the Monastery
If you are looking for things to do from Kamena Vourla, make sure to check out the Monastery of the Holy Savior or “Monastiri you Sotira”. The road is narrow and windy but the views it offers of the bay below more than make up for it. If you are super adventurous you could also attempt a short hike, even though the road makes this a slightly dangerous feat.
The monastery has opening hours that you should check in advance.
From the town of Kamena Vourla, you can also spot the big white cross that stands near the monastery. There is also a small gift shop if you want to purchase locally produced cheese and yogurt that the monks make.
Day Tour to Vagonetto
While it has been years since I last visited Vagonetto, it is a place I would recommend every visitor check out. It is a perfect road trip destination, as it only takes an hour to reach it.
This is a unique thematic mining park, with a sadly quite badly designed website, meaning at first glance you are likely not captivated. It makes me quite sad to see places like this but I digress.
You can take a guided tour through the old tunnels, learn about the mining process, and explore the fascinating history of the region’s mining industry.
The site was once an operational bauxite mining tunnel, that closed in 1972 after the deposit was depleted. In 1998, the tunnel was converted into a tourist and educational destination.
While the website says otherwise, it is best to call and book ahead since they often receive large number of visitors.
Day Tour to Karpenisi Saloon Park
Another fun day trip option, especially if you are a family traveling with kids, is the Karpenisi Saloon Park.
To reach Karpenisi, you will have to drive a bit further than Vagonetto, or 1 hour 30 minutes total from Kamena Vourla. The road is a bit windy at times, so make sure to take any motion sickness medication if you need it.
On a hot summer day, the park provides the necessary shade and the chance to get higher on the mountains.
There are plenty of activities for kids, including a zip line, a climbing wall, archery, canoes, and horse riding from 6+ years old around the park.
Visit One of the Beaches Near Arkitsa
Arkitsa, a short drive from Kamena Vourla, is home to some beautiful, less crowded beaches. These beaches offer a more tranquil setting where you can relax and soak up the sun. The waters here are calm and perfect for swimming, making it a great spot for a quiet day by the sea. At 20 minutes away from Kamena Vourla, this is an excellent option if you want to change things up. Make sure to visit the Lighthouse of Arkitsa which was built in 1908.
Find a Sandy Beach at Beach Bar Piratis
One of the few spots with sand nearby, this beach bar is located after the village of Agios Konstantinos. The canteen offers souvlaki, sardines and other fried fish delicacies as well as refreshing drinks and cocktails. The sea bed is shallow until the eye can see, which works out great if you are visiting with children.
Stroll as the Locals Do
One of the best ways to experience Kamena Vourla is by simply strolling through its streets like a local. Take a leisurely walk along the town’s promenade, browse the shops, and enjoy the laid-back atmosphere.
Visit Livadia
Livadia is also one hour away from Kamena Vourla, and it makes for a great road trip destination. From visiting the castle to feasting on local meat, and walking around the area of Krya, there is so much to do in the area.
You can read the full guide to Livadia here, with more ideas and suggestions for the area.
Discover Thermopylae and Its Hot Springs
No visit to Kamena Vourla would be complete without a trip to the legendary site of Thermopylae, located just 20 minutes away by car. Most visitors will know this as the 300 movie place.
Unfortunately, there isn’t much there to entice visitors but it is still worth a stop in my opinion.
On one side of the road you will find the Monument to the 700 Thespians and the Memorial to Leonidas and 300 Spartans, right next is the Historical Information Center for Thermopylae. The ticket entrance is only a couple of euros per person, and there is a short video and some educational material that is interesting for adults and kids alike.
Before leaving the area, make sure to stop across the road as well. Here you will find the Memorial to the 300 with a sign commemorating the place where the last warriors died.
Another short 5 minutes down the road and you will have landed at the Thermal Baths of Thermopylae. A lot of people camp here in order to be close to the pools. Entrance is free and there is a strong smell of sulfur. The water is quite hot, so even if you don’t bathe it is nice to experience dipping your fingers in.
Due to several car break-ins, it is recommended to lock your car and check your belongings.
Where to Eat in Kamena Vourla
Kamena Vourla offers a variety of dining options, ranging from casual cafés to more upscale restaurants. Here are some top recommendations:
Coffee and Brunch Spots
- Imioro: A local favorite for coffee, Imioro is also known for its delicious homemade pies. It’s a cozy spot to start your day.
- Barossa: Another excellent café option, Barbarossa offers a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for enjoying your morning coffee. Friendly staff!
- Letta: Situated right by the beach, Letta is great for brunch or a late-night snack. Their waffles and crepes are especially popular and super tasty!
Casual Dining
- Mythos Music Café: This charming café is known for its great cocktails and music. While the service can be a bit slow, the relaxed vibe makes it a perfect place to unwind. They also do themed food nights sometimes (sushi on Wednesdays).
- Camino: If you’re in the mood for Italian, Camino offers a more upscale dining experience. Their menu includes a variety of Italian dishes, all made with fresh ingredients.
- A Bona: When it comes to pizza, A Bona is the go-to place in Kamena Vourla. Everything on their menu is amazing, making it a must-visit for pizza lovers.
Traditional Greek Cuisine
- Dionysos Grill Taverna: Known for its grilled meats, Dionysos is the best place in town for dishes like splinantero and succulent pork chops. Very relaxed and old school vibe that fits the scene.
Desserts
- Spitiko: Dessert is a big deal here, particularly ice-cream. Located near the main supermarket, this spot boasts over 30 flavors of ice cream and a variety of other sweet treats to satisfy any craving.
Where to Stay in Kamena Vourla
On top of all these great activities and places to visit, Kamena Vourla can be an affordable place to spend your holidays. That is not to say there are no luxury options available.
The most luxurious option available is Mitsis Galini Wellness Spa & Resort, with indoor and outdoor spa facilities and the only place with access to the thermal pools.
Another great option if you want more amenities is Hotel Sissy. Great value for money with a pool and access to the beach.
There are also a lot of family-run studios that offer great value for money.
Check out Anna’s Studio and Ourania’s Apartments if you prefer an intimate and homely atmosphere with clean, affordable accommodation, perfect for long-term stays.
Additional Reading and Resources on Kamena Vourla and Related Themes
Travel is about learning and expanding your understanding of the world, right? Right!
With that in mind let’s check out some resources you can use.
Books
GREECE: Biography of a Modern Nation by Roderick Beaton
- I recommend this book to absolutely everyone. It touches on so many important themes that make Greece better to understand for people. From the legacy of the ancients to the marketing rejuvenation of Greece after Ottoman occupation, to now, this book presents facts and ideas that have shaped how Greece is now, culturally, politically, and religiously.
“The Radium Girls: The Dark Story of America’s Shining Women” by Kate Moore
- A poignant account of the young women who were exposed to radium while painting watch dials. I was shocked when I first read this book. It sheds light on the darker side of radium’s history, complementing your exploration of radon and thermal springs.
Central Greece Travel Guide – Lonely Planet
- Lonely Planet guidebooks hold a certain appeal. Whether it is for browsing during a trip, before or after.
Videos
“RADIO Hotel” (Scenes from Film)
- This short clip on YouTube offers a glimpse into what Hotel Radio looked like in 1961, during its peak. It also opens the door for a bit of old Greek cinema exploration if you are able to find them in English, which is arguably hard.
“THE ODYSSEY OF THE MONK SEAL” (Documentary)
- There is some beautiful footage of monk seals and a full documentary (in French) that explores the struggles of this endangered and little-studied creature.
The Battle of Thermopylae: How 300 Spartans Held Off Thousands of Persians | DOCUMENTARY
- If you don’t make it to Thermopylae to browse their material, make sure to check out some additional resources to understand the geography of the area where the 300, heroically gave their lives after being betrayed.
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Must Know When Visiting Greece
- Emergency: Dial 112 for all emergencies. For police, dial 100. For ambulance 166. For fire dial 199.
- Language: English is widely spoken in most tourist areas. Common phrases to learn are “Kalimera” (Good morning), “Yia” (Hello and Bye – informal), and “Efharisto” (Thank you).
- Water: Tap water is safe in Athens, mainland Greece and a small number of islands. Always ask beforehand.
- Driving: Right-hand side, international driving permit recommended. Book your rental car with Discover Cars for the best rates and comparisons across all major and local companies.
- Accommodation: Booking.com for the most options on hotels, apartments and hostels. Free cancellation in a lot of places and no need to pre-pay. Great for their rewards points system.
- Islands: There are a lot of islands, spread out around the country. Start with a map or ferry service to get an idea of travel times. Ferry Scanner is the best for ferry bookings to the Greek islands.
- Activities: From cultural sights to day trips, food tours and city guides, use Get Your Guide.
- Public Transport: For Athens, use the Athens Metro. If you are not renting a car, use Trains (Hellenic Train) or KTEL (Public Buses) services.
- Domestic Airlines: The main airlines for air travel are Aegean Airlines and Sky Express. I recommend Aegean Airlines and its rewards program.
- Taxi: Always use a taxi app, instead of flagging down a taxi from the road. Use FREE Now (formerly BEAT).
- Culture: A siesta nap is still common in less touristy areas. This also means businesses will close between 2 PM – 5 PM. Except for hospitality businesses, everything is closed on Sundays.
