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Long before I got to work in tourism or travel and write about the places I stay and visit, I had been to Enagron with my family.
All these years later, I still find Enagron a place that can appeal to families, couples and everything else in between, so time to share my review of what to expect here and how to have the best time preparing for this trip.
The Setting
To reach Enagron you’ll have to reach Crete island, which offers options by air or ferry. If you land in Heraklion, expect at least a 3-hour drive.
From Chania, the drive is equally scenic and takes 2.5 hours. Expect dramatic mountain drives and gorgeous views the whole way through.
For both options, you’ll have the choice to arrange a transfer or book a car and drive yourself.
In terms of rentals, I always recommend checking out Discover Cars, to compare prices from all major companies and scout deals, while finding options that cover all your needs (credit card payments, insurance etc).
As a gentle warning, driving in Crete is a bit different than other places but that’s not undoable. Just expect more mountain roads, less signage, less adherence to traffic rules and an overall “c’est la vie” attitude from locals.
The area where Enagron is located is called Axos, a village that doesn’t seem like it would have a lot to offer, but god is that not true.
I use and compare prices for car rentals, with Discovercars.com. It is a giant rental and comparison site on the market and it has a lot of perks that make sense if you travel often.
Once you head to Discover Cars, you’ll find an easy search engine to filter by location, dates and pick up location.
Tip: Always check a few different pick up locations when booking a rental car.
When to Visit
Enagron is open pretty much year-round, with small gaps after the winter holidays where it is closed for maintenance usually.
In my experience, there is no bad time to visit but you’ll experience will differ based on the season.
Spring and early summer are ideal if you want to take part in hiking excursions nearby to enjoy the wildflowers, spot birds down the canyon, and go for a dip in the pool (still cold though). This time is also best for local produce so you’ll get to enjoy a cooking class with fresh vegetables, and eat like a king or queen at night when they serve meals.
July and August are the hottest months, and while the altitude at Axos keeps it a bit cooler than the coast, you’ll still get proper summer sun. This is peak travel time, though, so expect more people and higher prices across Crete. You might also be a bit far from the beach if you want to sunbathe near the sea.
Autumn (September to early November) might just be my favorite. The light is golden, the food is harvest-fresh, and the crowds have thinned. It’s also when Enagron hosts more culinary and cultural activities olive oil tastings, raki distillations, and seasonal cooking sessions. This is a busy season all over the island with harvests taking place and end of season work to be done.
Winter is the quietest and coziest time, and if you’re after peace, mountain fog, and a crackling fireplace, it’s magic. Some nearby spots may close for the season, but Enagron keeps a few rooms open, especially around the holidays and everything will feel a lot more intimate and tailored to you. The smell of Mrs Mary’s powdered cookies and glass of orange juice at arrival, with the fire crackling at the back is such a welcome sight everytime.
If you do visit in early spring or winter, make sure to request a room with a fireplace. A lot of the rooms have them, so you can stock and keep the fire going over night, or just spend a few hours relaxing next to it with a cup of coffee or whiskey!
What to Expect from the Facilities
Enagron isn’t your average hotel… it’s more like a small village built deep into the gorge.. with small terracotta colored cottages, winding paths, a small museum, a restaurant and event’s room and more.
The rooms are mostly apartment-style, with kitchenettes, living spaces, and outdoor seating. Think wooden beams, local textiles, and balconies that open to either olive groves or the mountains. It’s rustic, but not rough and everything is clean, comfortable, and made to help you settle in without any fuss.
If you get a chance you might also get to hear the story of how Enagron came to be, the creation of a couple who combined their loves and passions to make it happen, and have passed it on to the next generation (their son).
There’s also a pool on the property, with the most incredible views, so you don’t have to worry if you want to soak the sun while cooling down at the same time.
Despite the location, I’ve found the Wi-Fi to be realible as well, so longer stays or those who need to work while away won’t have any issue.
The other highlight is of course the food and the friendly staff. After countless visits I’ve come to miss them as much as the space, and look forward to sharing stories about life on the village and the recipes they have us enjoy.
If you want to add more to the experience, Enagron delivers a range of seasonal activities, from bread, to cheesemaking, cooking class, hiking excursions and the lovely botanical walk around the property with myths and legends of the plants and their significance to Greek history.
Now let’s talk about the food!
Food at Enagron
If there’s one thing that makes Enagron truly unforgettable, it’s the food. There’s a traditional restaurant on site where breakfast is served each morning a generous buffet filled with fresh bread, mountain honey, local cheeses, handmade pies, and eggs plus my favorite little honey dough balls and chocolatey doghunts.
Upstairs, there’s another dining space with beautiful views, right next to the coziest kafenion — a traditional Greek coffee spot — where you can grab a morning espresso, herbal tea, or a glass of raki, depending on the mood.
If the weather is good, there are also outdoor seating options under the massive plane trees.
Everything here is seasonal. The dishes are made with what’s available on the land or nearby, always cooked with extra virgin olive oil, and often served with a little explanation if you’re curious about the ingredients. You’ll find local meats, cheeses from small producers, mountain greens you probably don’t know the name of, and of course, plenty of wine and tsikoudia to go with it all.
What makes it even more special is that the women doing the cooking each day aren’t just staff — they’re from the village, and many have been part of the Enagron family since it began. Their knowledge, care, and connection to the place comes through in every meal. If you’re lucky enough to catch a cooking workshop while you’re there, definitely do it. It’s not just about recipes — it’s about learning how to feed people with love.
What to Do in Axos
One of the best things about staying at Enagron is getting to know the village of Axos. It’s not big, but it’s full of heart — and full of people doing remarkable things.
Start with Miss Antonia’s shop, a small store tucked along the main road where she sells handmade bags, weavings, and other goods she’s been crafting for decades. She’ll proudly show you the photo of when she met Princess Diana (yes, really) and tell you stories about each item in the shop. Her daughter, together with her husband, now carries the family tradition forward — using olive wood to create gorgeous bags and accessories. I always leave with something, and I always stop by just to say hi. I hope I’ll be doing that for many years to come.
Another must-see is the Wood Sculpture Museum of Axos, created by the incredibly talented George. He’s been sculpting since he was a teenager and turned his passion into a full-fledged museum, filled with large-scale wooden pieces that explore mythology, human connection, and everything in between. His energy is contagious — and if he’s around when you visit, you’ll likely get a personal tour. Call ahead to book, and don’t miss it. The ticket price is minimal, and the experience is anything but.
If you’re visiting with a group, Enagron can also help organize traditional Greek dance lessons in the village. It’s a fun, interactive way to dive into local culture — especially when paired with a glass of wine and a few laughs.
Beyond that, just take time to walk around the village. Axos has half a dozen small Byzantine churches, some tucked away down narrow paths or behind stone walls. The Monastery of Halepa is also nearby and worth a visit — a peaceful spot that adds to the spiritual feel of the region.
Check out current prices and nearby accommodation as well, in the map below!
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Must Know When Visiting Greece
- Emergency: Dial 112 for all emergencies. For police, dial 100. For ambulance 166. For fire dial 199.
- Language: English is widely spoken in most tourist areas. Common phrases to learn are “Kalimera” (Good morning), “Yia” (Hello and Bye – informal), and “Efharisto” (Thank you).
- Water: Tap water is safe in Athens, mainland Greece and a small number of islands. Always ask beforehand.
- Driving: Right-hand side, international driving permit recommended. Book your rental car with Discover Cars for the best rates and comparisons across all major and local companies.
- Accommodation: Booking.com for the most options on hotels, apartments and hostels. Free cancellation in a lot of places and no need to pre-pay. Great for their rewards points system.
- Islands: There are a lot of islands, spread out around the country. Start with a map or ferry service to get an idea of travel times. Ferry Scanner is the best for ferry bookings to the Greek islands.
- Activities: From cultural sights to day trips, food tours and city guides, use Get Your Guide.
- Public Transport: For Athens, use the Athens Metro. If you are not renting a car, use Trains (Hellenic Train) or KTEL (Public Buses) services.
- Domestic Airlines: The main airlines for air travel are Aegean Airlines and Sky Express. I recommend Aegean Airlines and its rewards program.
- Taxi: Always use a taxi app, instead of flagging down a taxi from the road. Use FREE Now (formerly BEAT).
- Culture: A siesta nap is still common in less touristy areas. This also means businesses will close between 2 PM – 5 PM. Except for hospitality businesses, everything is closed on Sundays.
