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Tzoumerka is one of those rare places in Greece that retain the old charm.
The region is made up of dozens of stone-built villages scattered between forests, rivers, and dramatic peaks. It’s also one of the best road trip destinations in Northern Greece, especially if you’re looking to explore at your own pace. There’s no single “town center” in Tzoumerka — instead, it’s a network of small, character-filled villages, each with its own stories, views, and reasons to linger.
I’ve visited more than once, and every time I go, I’m amazed by the combination of scenery, hospitality, food, and low-key adventure that this region delivers. Whether you’re into quiet hikes, cultural heritage, or just long drives with mountain views, Tzoumerka is absolutely worth the detour.
Where Is Tzoumerka, Greece?
Tzoumerka is located in Epirus, in northwestern Greece. If you’re looking at a map, you’ll find it just south of Ioannina— the region’s main city — and south of Zagori (Zagorohoria), which is better known internationally but far more touristy these days.
While Zagori gets more attention for its stone villages and Vikos Gorge, Tzoumerka feels wilder and more spread out. The villages here are less polished but just as beautiful, and the mountains often feel like they’re all yours. Instead of one central base, you’ll find a mix of small, authentic villages spread across the landscape — from Pramanta and Matsouki to Syrrako, Kalarrytes, and Kalentzi.
It’s a great addition to a road trip through Northern Greece or a detour if you’re heading between Meteora and Ioannina. Just make sure you have a full tank — petrol stations are few and far between once you’re in the heart of the mountains.
What do Bulgari and Tzoumerka have in common?
Tzoumerka might not be a household name — but one of its tiny mountain villages is tied to one of the most famous luxury brands in the world.
Sotirios Voulgaris, the founder of Bulgari, was born in Kalarrytes in 1857. His family were silversmiths, part of a long tradition in the region. In fact, both Kalarrytes and Syrrako were known for producing highly skilled gold and silversmiths who sold their work all over the Ottoman Empire. Sotirios eventually emigrated to Italy, where he founded the first Bulgari store in Rome in 1884 — and the rest is history.
It’s not just jewelry that makes these villages special. The whole Epirus region — including Tzoumerka — is known for its stonemasons, the people who built the famous stone bridges, monasteries, and houses you see all across northern Greece. This mix of craft, trade, and timeless style is part of what makes the area feel so unique. Let’s explore!
How to Get to Tzoumerka
If you’re flying in from abroad, the simplest route is to land in Thessaloniki or Athens.
From there, you can:
- Take a KTEL bus to Ioannina from Athens or Thessaloniki — tickets are usually between 30–50 EUR return, depending on the season.
Rent a car directly in Ioannina — this is what I would recommend.
- Or rent a car in Thessaloniki/Athens where you will have to return it.
Once you’re in Ioannina, it’s just over an hour’s drive to Pramanta, and even less to other parts of the region.
🚗 I usually book my rentals through Discover Cars and have had good experiences with them. If you’re not keen on driving through mountain roads, another option is booking a private driver or van — more expensive, but it saves you the stress of narrow turns and steep hills.
Important: There are no public buses running between the villages of Tzoumerka. If you don’t have a car (or a guide), you’ll miss most of what makes this place special.
I use and compare prices for car rentals, with Discovercars.com. It is a giant rental and comparison site on the market and it has a lot of perks that make sense if you travel often.
Once you head to Discover Cars, you’ll find an easy search engine to filter by location, dates and pick up location.
Tip: Always check a few different pick up locations when booking a rental car.
Things to Do in Tzoumerka
1. Explore Pramanta, the Heart of Northern Tzoumerka
For most visitors, this is the number one stop when arriving. You can also do a quick visit to the hiking refuge just outside the village — it’s where you stay if you’re doing mountain hikes nearby, which I highly recommend. The central church is beautiful, and so is the taverna of Boutzas, which I always enjoy.
Tip: If you’re on a road trip, stock up on gas here — there aren’t many more options nearby.
2. Visit the Anemotrypa Cave
Not far from the village, this cave is a must if you’re in the area. There are plenty of colorful rock formations and it’s cool inside, which makes it a great stop during the summer. It’s also really affordable — under €3 per adult.
3. Hike to Kipina Monastery, Built Into a Cliff
This is one of the most scenic monasteries in Greece. The iconic photo of it built into the rock face has gone viral many times. Beyond its religious significance, it’s just an incredible spot to take in the views and admire the architecture.
4. Step Back in Time in Syrrako
Of all the villages in the area, Syrrako is one of the most famous — and for good reason. The stone houses, narrow alleys, and total lack of modern buildings make it feel like a movie set. I remember vividly sitting in the square, drinking coffee and watching locals come in and out of their homes. This is also the birthplace of poet Kostas Krystallis — his house has been turned into a small folklore museum that’s worth a visit.
You’ll have to drop your car and continue on foot to enter the village.
5. Cross Over to Kalarrytes
Kalarrytes is just across the gorge from Syrrako. It’s smaller and a bit rougher around the edges, which I liked. The kafeneio run by Napoleon Zaglis is somewhat legendary — both for the food and for Napoleon himself. Try anything on the menu and you won’t be disappointed. The whole village is charming and worth a slow wander.
6. Visit Viliza Monastery near Matsouki
This is probably my favorite monastery in the area. It does require a short hike, so pick a nice weather day. The courtyard and views are stunning — I’ve stood there watching the sun break through the clouds over the hills and it honestly felt like a painting.
See if you can spot one of my friends walking the narrow path.
One of my favorite photos. The patch of green at the top of that hill looked so amazing.
7. Wander Through Matsouki and See the Dristella
Matsouki is a quiet village that still holds onto its old traditions. One of the highlights here is the Saint Paraskevi watermill, or dristella, which was used to clean and soften woolen textiles. It’s one of the few working ones left in Greece, and if you’re lucky, you might see it in action.
8. Admire the Plaka Bridge
This stone bridge used to be the largest one-arch bridge in the Balkans. It partially collapsed in 2015 but has since been restored. It’s a beautiful place to stop — both for photos and for just standing there, watching the river flow below.
9. Visit the Tzoumakers Lab in Kalentzi
This isn’t your usual sightseeing stop. The Tzoumakers Lab is a community-run workshop where locals design and build tools for farming — all based on what they actually need. It’s part tradition, part modern innovation, and I found it really inspiring. (Call ahead if you want to visit — it’s not always open.)
10. Eat Your Way Through the Villages
This goes without saying, but the food in Tzoumerka is a highlight in itself. Look out for pies, goat in the oven, spoon sweets, tsipouro, and anything made with mountain greens or mushrooms. Honestly, you’ll eat well no matter where you stop.
11. Enjoy the Drive Itself
The roads around here are some of the most scenic I’ve driven in Greece. Between winding mountain passes, pine forests, and sudden sweeping views, it’s a road trip you’ll actually enjoy — even if you’re usually the nervous passenger.
12. Discover the Museum of Contemporary Art in Elliniko
This is one of the most unexpectedly great museums I’ve ever visited in Greece. Created by sculptor Theodoros Papagiannis, it’s filled with fascinating work — and I say that as someone who usually finds contemporary museums kind of boring. It’s quirky, it’s thoughtful, and the setting makes it even better.
13. Snap a Photo at the Iron Bridge of Agnanta
Most people come to Tzoumerka for the stone villages and arched bridges, but just outside the village of Agnanta, you’ll find something a little different — a steel bridge that played a role in more recent history. Built in the early 20th century and later used during WWII and the Greek Civil War, the Agnanta Iron Bridge is a reminder that these mountains have seen their fair share of 20th-century struggles too.
It’s not the kind of bridge that shows up on postcards, but I liked the contrast. The valley views here are great and it’s an easy photo stop if you’re doing the loop near Pramanta.
Where to Stay in Tzoumerka
There’s no single tourist hub in Tzoumerka — it’s more of a scattered region with great villages for basing yourself depending on what you want to do. That said, Pramanta is probably the most convenient option if it’s your first time here. It’s got food, gas, a supermarket, and easy access to most nearby attractions.
Here are a few good options I’ve come across:
Anavasi Mountain Resort – Pramanta
I’ve stayed here in the past and loved it. It’s tucked just a bit outside the village, and offers quiet, comfort, and easy access to places like Anemotrypa Cave, Kipina Monastery, and Syrrako. The views and breakfast are also great.
Orizontes Tzoumerkon – Pramanta
Another solid pick in the same area. It’s slightly more modern in style, with incredible views from the balconies and a great location for day trips around Northern Tzoumerka. Bonus: you can walk to Pramanta in under 10 minutes.
Traditional Guesthouses in Syrrako or Kalarrytes
If you want the full stone-village, mountain-vibe experience, spending a night or two in Syrrako or Kalarrytes is a must. These villages don’t have much nightlife (or streetlights in some areas) (or proper roads), but that’s the charm. Just be aware they’re a bit less central for exploring the whole region — better for soaking in the atmosphere.
What to Eat in Tzoumerka
The recommendations below are strongly geared toward the things I love — but then again, I do eat everything.
- Lamb chops – Grilled and salty, usually served with fries or a side of greens. Not unique to Tzoumerka, but almost always delicious here.
- Goat or lamb in the oven – If you eat meat, this is a must. Slow-cooked, juicy, and often paired with lemony potatoes or horta (wild greens).
- Game meat (like deer or wild boar) – Depending on the season and the tavern, you might find dishes with venison or wild boar. Ask if they have it — it’s a local specialty and not always on the menu.
- Pites (Pies) – I never skip a pie. Wild greens (hortopita), cheese pies (tiropita), and sometimes even meat pies — all handmade and usually baked.
- Local honey – The mountain honey here is worth bringing home. You’ll often get a taste with yogurt or in desserts. It’s floral, strong, and nothing like supermarket honey.
- Tsipouro – The local spirit. Strong, often homemade, and usually brought to the table before you even ask.
- Spoon sweets and jams – Usually made from quince, cherry, or mountain berries. You’ll spot jars in cafés, guesthouses, and roadside stalls.
If you’re near Pramanta, I always recommend eating at Boutzas Tavern. In Kalarrytes, grab a table at Napoleon Zaglis’ kafeneio — go for the food, stay for the experience.
Hiking in Tzoumerka: Trails from Pramanta and Melissourgoi
Tzoumerka is also a hiking paradise. I’ve had a few weekends of exploring the mountains here, staying at the modern Pramanta mountain refuge.
Another place to base yourself for hiking are Melissourgoi. Both huts are close to the trails.
1. Pramanta to Mount Strongoula
This is one of the most popular hikes in the area. The route starts near the Pramanta mountain refuge and takes you up to Strongoula peak, a rocky summit with panoramic views across Tzoumerka. It’s not an easy trail — expect 3–4 hours of moderate to hard hiking — but on a clear day, it’s absolutely worth it.
🕒 ~4 hours | ⛰ Moderate to hard | 📍 Trailhead: Pramanta refuge
2. Melissourgoi to Kefalovryso Waterfalls
If you’re staying in Melissourgoi, a beautiful option is the hike to Kefalovryso Waterfalls, a lush, green walk that’s relatively easy and very rewarding. It’s ideal for spring and early summer when the water flow is at its best.
🕒 ~1.5 hours round trip | ⛰ Easy to moderate | 📍 Trailhead: Melissourgoi village center
3. Crossing Between Villages (Syrrako to Kalarrytes)
Another must-do if you like combining hiking with exploring: this old path connects the two famous stone villages via a trail that runs through the gorge between them. It’s around an hour one way, and you can either return the same way or arrange a pickup.
🕒 ~1–1.5 hours one way | ⛰ Moderate | 📍 Trailhead: Syrrako or Kalarrytes
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
Must Know When Visiting Greece
- Emergency: Dial 112 for all emergencies. For police, dial 100. For ambulance 166. For fire dial 199.
- Language: English is widely spoken in most tourist areas. Common phrases to learn are “Kalimera” (Good morning), “Yia” (Hello and Bye – informal), and “Efharisto” (Thank you).
- Water: Tap water is safe in Athens, mainland Greece and a small number of islands. Always ask beforehand.
- Driving: Right-hand side, international driving permit recommended. Book your rental car with Discover Cars for the best rates and comparisons across all major and local companies.
- Accommodation: Booking.com for the most options on hotels, apartments and hostels. Free cancellation in a lot of places and no need to pre-pay. Great for their rewards points system.
- Islands: There are a lot of islands, spread out around the country. Start with a map or ferry service to get an idea of travel times. Ferry Scanner is the best for ferry bookings to the Greek islands.
- Activities: From cultural sights to day trips, food tours and city guides, use Get Your Guide.
- Public Transport: For Athens, use the Athens Metro. If you are not renting a car, use Trains (Hellenic Train) or KTEL (Public Buses) services.
- Domestic Airlines: The main airlines for air travel are Aegean Airlines and Sky Express. I recommend Aegean Airlines and its rewards program.
- Taxi: Always use a taxi app, instead of flagging down a taxi from the road. Use FREE Now (formerly BEAT).
- Culture: A siesta nap is still common in less touristy areas. This also means businesses will close between 2 PM – 5 PM. Except for hospitality businesses, everything is closed on Sundays.
